Fiji has some of the best coral and reefs
We’re back in Fiji, the land of happy people (mostly).
We were very pleasantly surprised to find a couple of friends who we hung out with during our last trip to Fiji and also in New Zealand. We knew they were in Fiji somewhere but to find them in the same port as us was a real treat.
We needed to buy food. Fiji has very strict rules about arriving with fresh food on the boat. This means just about everyone arriving heads out to the market or grocery store shortly after clearing in with customs and immigration. Our friends told us where the market was located and specifically mentioned who to buy eggs from.
One of the things about landing in a second-world country is being wary or dirty stores and not knowing if items are stored at the correct temperatures. We have had more bad experiences with things like yogurt or other dairy items. We have to consistently look at expiration dates on any shelf-stable items. And, often the general cleanliness of stores leaves a lot to be desired.
We were told to buy eggs from the woman who sells “prison eggs”. At her booth in the market, this is all she sells. And, she sells a ton of them. Apparently, the prison eggs are known to be much fresher than any eggs sold in stores. We got to thinking about this and smiled as a couple of thoughts popped into our heads.
Are prison eggs the complete opposite of free-range eggs? I wanted to ask why the chicken laying our eggs was incarcerated and for how long. Did it cross the street and jay-walk?
Mark getting eggs
Prison Eggs
Our sail from Minerva Reef was rather lively. We knew it would be challenging but were confident we could handle it. It makes me smile that in our earlier days of owning boats when we day sailed, we’d only set sail in ideal conditions. This typically meant 15-knot winds as we puttered about going wherever the wind blew us and with no real destination in mind. Now, here we are looking at 25-knot winds and thinking, well that’s not bad.
It turns out the winds were closer to a sustained 30 knots but because they came from the right direction and were consistent with the swells, the ride was pretty comfy. Some friends tracking our progress sent a couple of messages saying, we see it’s pretty windy – you guys okay? We were just fine. However, it’s super nice to know someone cares enough to check on us.
Pictures never really capture the size of ocean waves. We are already rising up to the crest of this wave when the picture is snapped.
We landed in Fiji at a different port than our last visit. We entered at Savusavu. The marina where we are staying for a few days is on a little island called Nawi. A small ferry shuttles the residents to and from downtown that is located just across the water. Staying at the marina is the only way we’d consider visiting Savusavu. They are quick to tout their tight security. There is a good reason they have enhanced patrols.
Sadly, there have been reports of crimes against yachties in this area. We’ve heard via the coconut telegraph how many boats on anchor or moorings just off Savusavu were broken into. Sadly, it isn’t just a few isolated incidences. The crime has been going on for a few years and includes a sexual assault of 83-year-old women aboard a yacht in 2023. Many of the larger rallies are skipping Savusavu completely.
We’ve already had an incident happen to us that I will write about in detail at a later time. I would not recommend any vessel to do their clearance in Savusavu. It wasn’t crime-related but an incident revolving around the authorities.
Cindy raises the Fiji courtesy flag after we clear in with customs and immigration
When we checked into the marina, one of the first things they highlighted was the security and the safety of their facility. The actual town of Savusavu is perfectly safe like any other place in Fiji. But, due to the past boat break-ins and avoidance, no doubt the economic impact is being felt by vendors who relied upon vessels as a big part of their business model.
Speaking of the marina, this place is really top-notch. It is a newish facility. Parts of it is still under construction. The staff are incredible. After we cleared in with the authorities on their clearance dock, we were told our slip assignment. The dockmaster has a small boat and leads the way. When we arrived at the dock, three staff members were there to assist with the lines. I swear, this is the closest we’ve come to valet parking a boat. They knew exactly how to tie a vessel and even in a strong wind, we had no issue making a landing without touching the dock or the neighboring boat.
Looking out at the boats from the restaurant in the marina (not very good food but a great place to meet up with other boaters).
Looking across to the small town of Savusavu from Nawi Island
The ferry dock where we catch the shuttle boat to and from town. You can see the boat masts tucked back behind the island
Savusavu is your typical Fijian town. It is basically one street with tons of little shops. We have the same chain of grocery stores that we shopped at in the Nadi area last year but they are all a little bit smaller. We are back to the days of having to shop every store while we try to purchase all the items on the shopping list. We quickly got used to going to big supermarkets in New Zealand and getting everything we wanted. And, having choices. Those days are gone, for now.
In addition to having limited choices, as I already mentioned, expiration dates need to be looked at closely. For example, when buying frozen meats, special attention must be paid to the color. Some of the meat might look like it was not kept at the correct temperature for the duration of the shelf life. Anything that looks slightly off-color is put back. We’ll let someone else take the risk.
The shuttle from the marina drops us in the middle of town right next to the veggie market. We love veggie markets. This one won’t win any trophies for cleanliness, but the goods are mostly fresh and the people are eager to please. Some of the prices are amazing. We were shopping mostly for fruit. Having spent a few days at sea, we have nothing fresh left. Besides, even if we did, we’d not be allowed to bring fresh fruit into the country.
I spotted some delicious looking small yellow bananas. I know you think I might be a little bit nuts by saying small and yellow bananas. Let me explain. Small bananas have a zing to them. They are not like bananas sold in most parts of the world in supermarkets. They are gone in about three bites but I promise, each bite is the most flavorful banana you’ll ever try. I say yellow because the norm here seems to be to sell them green.
So, the lady with the bananas had them in big bunches. As much as l love these little things, there is no way we can eat a bunch that size before they rot. So, we asked if we could buy a half bunch. No problem. She disappeared for a couple of minutes and returned with a knife. She cut off the few we wanted and insisted on wrapping them in newspaper. When she handed them to us, I almost fell over.
This little bunch of fresh small yellow bananas was on FJ$1.50. That’s about US$0.67 or 0.61 €. I can’t help but feel a little bit guilty that I didn’t buy the whole bunch.
The market
Between the market and the various grocery stores, we can usually get most of our shopping list satisfied. Choices are limited. Basic fruits and veggies are plentiful. However, anything more exotic like fresh mushrooms, strawberries, blackberries, or oftentimes lettuce are in very short supply if at all. I often wonder if there are local people who have never tasted raspberries in their entire life.
I think a big part of the general attraction to other boaters regarding Fiji is things are relatively cheap here. Well, some things are. Imported items can raise an eyebrow. We just paid F$17 for a small jar of jalapenos (6.90 Euros – US$7.54). However, food basics are very inexpensive.
The town of Savusavu has a handful of restaurants. Most will not win any awards for cleanliness. We’ve only found one, so far, where we’d rate the food as above average. It is a place called Grace’s Road Kitchen. Grace’s is a chain we fell in love with during our last visit to Fiji on Viti Levu. They are known for farm-to-table fresh food dishes. This Savusavu location has an open kitchen and is spotlessly clean. And, the food didn’t disappoint.
It’s nothing fancy on the outside but the food is good
You could eat off the floors here. Their chicken burgers are awesome.
We needed to have a part for the boat shipped to us from the USA. It took only about a week to arrive using Fiji Freight service (a consolidator in the US that air freights to Fiji). This meant we needed to pick it up at the local airport. We hopped in a taxi and asked the driver to wait while Cindy collected the package. The entire process took about 30 minutes in total. The taxi cost us a grand total of US$4.50. The reason I mention this is twofold. Firstly, the airport looked like a bus stop. It has to be the smallest airport terminal we’ve ever been to. Secondly, we asked the driver for the best restaurant in Savusavu. He said Grace’s.
– Savusavu Airport – It’s open air with a few benches and a single ticket window
It didn’t take us long to dust off our snorkel gear and jump into the water. One of the things we really missed during our stay in New Zealand was the ability to swim reefs in warm water. It was a real treat to be able to do this again and Fiji offers some spectacular sites to explore.
Lined surgeonfish
A clownfish (Nemo) hides in a sea anemone
Just off the Jean-Michel Cousteau resort is a great place to look at the fish and coral.
